Steeples Bistro – Racecourse Rd – Mornington VIC

Posted: April 26, 2014 in Burger Hunt
Tags: , , , ,

Another day, another burger – ah… such is my life.

Steeples 1

I just happened to be down in Mornington visiting my Mum, actually I was helping her buy a new car. So quite nicely, she offered to shout me lunch. Naturally I selected a place that just happened to have a Wagyu burger on the menu – what a happy coincidence… Actually I had heard about this particular burger from a good friend who’s culinary tastes I hold in high regard. Steeples in Mornington looks like a pokies venue – well it is as pokies venue, but it is also a bistro. It’s located at the back of the Mornington racecourse and is the kind of place frequented by the over 75’s set – they love their seniors discounts. I’m pretty sure the average age of the diners in there today was a young 83. The menu caters to the local crowd with the standard bistro favourites, but it also has some interesting options. I elected to ignore all of that and focused solely on the Burger. Ok, that’s a lie, I also ordered the oysters Kilpatrick, but only because Mum was buying. At $26 the burger comes with a side salad and sweet potato fries. Now that’s not cheap – and we are not in a classy restaurant by any stretch of the imagination – honest suburban bistro yes, two hat restaurant, no. So that leaves you thinking that the burger would have to be pretty damn good to be worth it’s price tag. Actually, on reflection – all restaurants in Mornington are overpriced, the drawback of being a bit of a tourist destination I guess, (Gee as a local boy who escaped “Morno” as soon as I could, it still feels wrong to think that people would visit voluntarily…) so you probably can’t compare the price with say, Rockpool which was only $24! (I’m just saying…) Anyway, lets not worry about all that, lets talk burgers.

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as you can see from the photo’s, the burger looks impressive and tasty on arrival with a generous Wagyu patty topped with melting Swiss cheese, a good serve of bacon and onion jam, all sandwiched between a nicely toasted sesame seed bun. Visually, big tick – and as well all know, the first bite is with the eyes.  Picking up the burger, I noticed that the bun felt fresh and soft, a little smaller than some burgers, but still a good size. Overall the burger was fairly weighty due to the rather generous Wagyu patty.  Side note – The bun is no longer a Brioche bun, not sure why the change – mine was a standard white bread – not really all that dissimilar to something you might pick up from a supermarket taste wise. First real bite and the meat was juicy and meaty, a very “umami” burger – with the sweet onion jam and the Swiss cheese complimenting the rich beefy Wagyu. The bacon added another hit of meat – as if you needed it. Unfortunately they had cooked the meat well done, I know this is due to the customers that they would serve here, you would never get a burger not cooked all the way though anywhere in Mornington – but at least give me the option, a medium cooked patty would have been twice as good.

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With all burgers of this style, I find that they can be a little too “one note”, and this burger was no exception. If they don’t absolutely nail all the elements, by the end, I find I’m always left wanting something more. Again this was the case with the steeples burger. 4 elements not including the bun – all going in the same direction. It just doesn’t blow me away unless each element is outstanding (There’s no room for error in these types of burgers). On the other hand, had there been a Smokey note from the grill or the bacon, or some sharpness from a pickle to cut through, perhaps some form of freshness, an interesting sauce or relish to contrast the flavours – there may have been some room to play with, but alas it was not to be. Ultimately, I would say that this was a good burger, with some high points, that just needed something else to push it into the great category.

Steeples on Urbanspoon

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