Archive for the ‘Diners Club’ Category

The end of the night, I had a 1981 Macallan whilst Shane the 1979. Good vintages

The end of the night, I had a 1981 Macallan whilst Shane the 1979. Good vintages

Ok, so the reason why Shane and I decided to head to Japan for two days, or more specifically to Tokyo for two days, is 1) Because we got cheap flights, and 2) Because Tokyo has more 3 Michelin starred restaurants than anywhere on the face of the planet! Logically this would mean that it should be realtively straight forward to secure a table at one of these world class resturants. After much research and a few phone calls. Shane and I settled on Chateau Joel Robuchon in Ebisu. Joel Robuchon has more stars than pretty much anyone else so if you are going for the crème de la crème of fine dining then I’m pretty sure you can look no further. Restaurants Joel Robuchon does not take booking sooner than 2 months from the date, so we called on the first day possible and were lucky to secure our table. Both Shane and I were pretty excited to be flying to Japan ostensibly just for dinner at such a well regarded establishment.

When we booked we knew that we were going to have a big day wondering around Harajuku, Ginza and Tokyo, so we made sure that our booking was for 7:30. Enough time to see the sights and then head back to the hotel, relax, change and then back off to Ebisu. Anyway, lets fast forward shall we and focus on the big day!

There seemed to be something wrong with Shanes camera - all the photo's came out blurry :(

There seemed to be something wrong with Shanes camera – all the photo’s came out blurry 😦

Oh, a side note: Unfortunately our photos suck, and we didn’t take any in the restaurant as it just isn’t the done thing in Japan. However we did get one at the end of the night – we asked if they could take one of us, which they were more than happy to do – that’s the photo up the top. You really don’t get a good grasp of the opulence of the restaurant from any of our photos. That’s probably the best way to describe Joel Robuchon – opulent.

Alright, well lets get stuck into the review:

We arrived early so that we could take a stroll around Ebisu and check out the restaurant – it’s an actual replica Château in the heart of modern Tokyo – really makes a statement. When you arrive you are treated impeccably from the start, these guys are as you would expect, at the top of their game in terms of hospitality.

The dinning room is an amazingly luxurious assault on the senses – We had a great location to see around the room and observe the other diners. I’ve included a shot from their website which gives you an impression of the room:

The Dinning room at Joel Robuchon Ebisu

The Dinning room at Joel Robuchon Ebisu

you can see more here:

I noted interestingly that the waiter did not place the serviette on my lap – perhaps an interesting Japanese/Australian cultural difference? Regardless of a few little differences here or there which you could chalk up to being in a Japanese, French restaurant in Tokyo, for the most part we felt extremely well looked after as you would expect. We were served by about 4 main, different people, all of whom spoke some level of English. Our primary waiter and our sommelier both spoke very good English. So when we sat down and ordered there were not communication issues.

We were offered water shortly after we sat down – we chose sparkling of course (As with Melbourne, it was rather pricey – but then that’s the genous of the diners club – we don’t care about the price!), and then a trolley with a pile of hand cut ice and what looked to me like 4 Jeroboams (3lts bottles) of Champagne, and one of rose. The waiter enquired if we would like a glass – however this is where is gets interesting, the Champagne was Veuve Clicquot NV. Now I don’t want to sound like a wine snob here, but I’m in a 3 star restaurant about to order a 14 course degustation, I almost said no. I’m not a fan of the flat, apple juice like NV. It’s so soft and uninteresting. I wonder if that is a Japan thing. Shane and I were both unimpressed with this beginning, but then the restaurants whole approach to wine was interesting to say the least. I asked the sommelier for the wine list and unfortunately it didn’t offer us much in the way of solutions – neither of us wanted to order just one or even two bottles for the evening, and there just wasn’t any choices by the glass except for the 6 “suggestions” for the degustation – 6 wines for 14 course when you include the cheese course… I understand that wine is not particularly popular and perhaps this was the cultural issue once more. We did end up getting a glass of the Veuve, and once again I was really not impressed by the wine – it’s an uninteresting wine by my tastes, but c’est la vie as they say. Lets move on and hope for better.  We consulted our sommelier about matching the 6 wines, and he was very helpful considering that English was not his first language, he made a suggestion for the first wine and we then communicated to him that we wanted him to chose the wines for us throughout the evening. Crisis averted, I was worried for a moment that our combine language and cultural barriers might get in the way, but one again the professionalism of the staff here shone through.

Whilst waiting for our first course we had the pleasure of being introduced to the moving “boulangerie”, a cart piled high with freshly baked breads and pasteries that we would select thoughout the night to match our dishes, or even whenever we pleased! The first bread – which was a perfect little baguette, was served with an amazing fruity, virgin olive oil. Delicious. I’m often surprised at just how amazingly good the bread and butter is at top class restaurants, sometimes it’s almost my highlight! Of course they weren’t finished showing off – just as I was about to partake of this freshly baked baguette, another waiter arrives wheeling in a trolley with a 3ft high glass cloche, underneath which was a tower of French butter, which they then proceeded to hand carve for us. Is there better butter anywhere??

Ok, so lets just get on with the food and wine. Actually before I really get into it, the one hard thing about this write up is that due to the language barrier, the waiters were unable to fully guide us through each course. They could give us the over view but it was difficult to really get more detailed information about the dish. We had the same issue with the wine, the sommelier would tell us the wine and then leave the bottle for us to study – we had to work hard if we wanted to find our the grape variety beacuase, one – French labelling doesn’t list the grape – you need to know the region (Well, they might list the grape but I can’t read French, and/or couldn’t see it listed) and the waiters were finding it difficult to give us more than the basic details in English. We got there most times, but it was challenging – obviously no points deducted for any of this – I’m amazing at how well it all went considering we were in a non English speaking country, hats off to the whole team at Joel Robuchon, they did an outstanding job in this regard.

Anyway, so where was I? ah yes – the degustation:

I’ll bold the course title as it was listed on the menu:

Amuse-Bouche Le Caviar Imperial

Caviar with a delicate crustacean jelly served in a surprise tin

First dish was a show stopper – Straight away I thought – now this is why this place is a three star restaurant – pure decadence right there in the first course. The plate itself was a beautiful artistic creation, rising up with a mounded middle on which the surprise tin sat. There were little crystals on the side of the plate and the spoon was completely made of mother of pearl. Removing the lid and you were exposed to the mound of fresh caviar sitting in the light jelly, above a generous amount of picked lobster. This dish was spectacular. So well executed, fresh, rich, a slight taste of the sea, decadent – brilliant. However, we both felt the lack of a nice complex champagne to cut through the richness, and all we had was the disappointing Veuve Clicquot NV.Thankfully our sommelier started to match wines for us after this.


Sea Urchin three ways:

  • With a coffee scented mash potato
  • In a maki with couscous and cucumber
  • With a fennel cream on a sea urchin blanc-manger

Ok, so we’ve just finished the first course which was amazing, and then out comes the second course, sea urchin done three different ways. The first, the coffee scented mash potato was interesting, a very light coffee note over a buttery rich mashed potato, then a light sea urchin hint – that was more texture than flavour, it’s like a hint of the sea really. Perhaps too delicate for this dish, the sea urchin was somewhat lost in the flavour of the buttery potato and the coffee scent. The maki was forgettable, not sure exactly what this was there for, perhaps to cleanse the palate? It seemed a bit too much on the cucumber front, flat. The fennel cream showed promise, a light pop of salt hit the mouth first then the perfume of the fennel, but again, very light. Very well executed though – my thoughts at the end were interesting but not show stopping.

 Le Potiron

Chilled Pumpkin Veloute enhanced with smoke

The is was the dish of the night – no doubt about it. A really sophisticated, yet refined, subtle, yet punchy dish. This is one of those dishes that sit up there in my top 5 all time meals. This was amazing – I knew I was at a three star establishment from the moment it hit my lips. The veloute had a light milk foam on top small hits of smoked oil and the diced pumpkin which was cooked until tender. The subtle hit of the smoke on the back of the creamy pumpkin liquid just worked so well.

It was after this dish that the Chef, Alain Verzeroli came to our table for a chat. The first thing he asked us how long we had been in the industry! I guess they must have thought we had come out to steal some ideas – or we were critics! He spoke about his style and philosophy -simple food done well, let the food speak for itself in a sense. He also knew a bit about the Melbourne food scene and had some experience with Vue de monde, Shannon Bennet’s amazing restaurant in Melbourne. We were pretty chuffed at having the opportunity to chat to a three starred chef – that doesn’t happen every day! It was also lovely of the waiter to bring him out to meet us, he had clearly overheard our non stop foodie table talk – I didn’t see it happen at any other table. Speaking of which, the clientele at the restaurants was quite interesting, it seemed like a special occasion restaurant as most of the groups were celebrating something. It’s quite interesting to observe the different way that the Japanese celebrate a special occasion such as a birthday or anniversary. The waiter would bring out a small cake with a candle, then the table would all gather around and the waiter would take a photo, and then very quiet polite applause, so as not to disturb anyone else in the restaurant. Fascinating.

Les Crustaces

Crustacean three ways:

  • In a spicy broth with fresh herbs
  • deep fried crab with green curry emulsion
  • Dublin bay prawn served with a lemongrass emulsion and oil, stewed leeks

This course was somewhat disappointing – the three options were all well executed, however they just didn’t seem linked enough – I feel a choice of one would have been better. The first dish I tried, the deep fried crab was nice, deep fried in a crispy thing wrapper, cooked tender with a nice green curry to dip it into…- But then I don’t want nice when I’m at a three star restaurant. I want every dish to be amazing. To sing in the mouth. If it doesn’t then it shouldn’t be on my plate. I can get nice at a lot of places, places I haven’t flown for 10 hrs to get to. I have to say this one was disappointing. The Dublin bay prawn (Langoustine), was a bit flat as well, again, nice, but just not making me sit up and take notice. Finally the spicy broth with fresh herbs was lovely, both Shane and I thought they would have been much better off just serving this on it’s own… At this stage the sommelier had brought out a really interesting viogner, the 2011 Paul Jaboulet Aine Condrieu Les Cassines.

La Noix de Saint-Jacques

Panfried scallop with seaweed butter, ginger and apple condiment , sorrel and baby turnip

Oh dear, another dish that I just kind of sighed after taking the first bite. Look, it was a perfectly cooked scallop, but it was just not the interesting – I felt it wasn’t adventurous enough, a little boring really. I wanted to be challenged, I wanted to really see a vision from the chef. Yes I know he is all about simplicity, but that doesn’t mean you can’t take me on an interesting journey at the same time. Good, but not great. The baby turnip was quite nice, it was stuffed with the sorrel and was actually really enjoyable.

La Figue

Fresh Fig covered with a red wine tuile and saved with panfried foie gras

Oh wow – back in three star town. Thank you chef. I feel like this has been a bit of an iron chef kind of meal where some of the dishes just didn’t hit the mark and then all of a sudden they come back with a standout dish. This was foie gras cooked to perfection. Such richness, such tenderness. And the fig, sweet and candy like, cutting through the immense richness of the duck liver. This is the kind of dish you want.

Le Fromage Persille

Blue cheese fondant served on plum and orange compote, maple syrup thin tartlet

And then we got this dish… I didn’t understand the point of this course at this stage. The dish was executed exceedingly well, but for all intents and purposes this was a cheese course – the gorgonzola fondant was lovely but quite strong. I thought this was the end of the meal. Quite strange actually, especially to have it followed up with a fish course.

La Sole

Panfired Dover Sole with almonds served on a brioche mousseline and caper coulis

Once again, a nice dish, but not amazing. The fish was interesting, cooked quite well – the Sole is a solid fish, not as delicate as I was expecting from a white fish. The caper coulis and the brioche mousseline were wonderful and really lifted the fish beyond being a plain, yet perfectly cooked firm white fish. Nothing really all that memorable.

Le Boeuf

Grilled Beef accompanied by spicy eggplant variation and tapenade jus

Oh, gosh, another hit. Thank the lord, I was getting worried. This dish was excellent and paired nicely with a lovely 2011 Chateauneuf-du-pape, ‘Cuvee Colombis’ from Domaine I. Ferrand. Everything you have heard about Japanese Wagyu is true -it’s amazing. so buttery and tender, delicious. If only this was a 4 course meal, and we could have just selected the hits, and left out the misses… The eggplant was amazing, there was a slice underneath the beef that tasted exactly like some of the best steak I’ve every had. Once again, amazing.

Les Legumes

Seasonal vegetables stewed and served with buckwheat’s seed

My first reaction WTF??? NO NO NO. This dish was just so underwhelming and disappointing. It was essentially a bowl of mixed vegetable!! Are you kidding me – I paid how much for this?? No seriously. Ok, so it wasn’t what I was expecting, lets all calm down for a moment and talk this through. Small bowl presented with a spoon filled with Buckwheat seed that I was supposed to pour over the dish to give it a different texture. Bowl had a lotus root, a Portobello mushroom – which to be fair was pretty damn good, and then some pathetic sautéed vegetables – some green beans, carrot… I was not impressed.


At this stage the cheese cart comes out and both Shane and I are a little bit flat – this is not turning out to be the amazing gourmet experience we had hoped. When I thought of a three start restaurant I thought of the best I’ve had back home – Ben Shewry’s Attica in Ripponlea, or Matt Moran’s Aria in Sydney, or even Neil Perry’s Rockpool – and then I thought – it must be even better than any of these places. Nothing here really topped any of those places… Ok, sure the ambiance and the service was second to none – and let’s be honest the service here was like food theatre – such professionals. But the food was really a bit, dare I say it, disappointing. And don’t get me started on the wine – 6 wines for 14 courses, and not really matched!!!! Anyway, so by this stage yes we were both enjoying ourselves, but we were a bit flat. The cheese cart rolls by and we were asked if we would like to select some cheese. Why, of course we do… We selected an amazing Comté and a lovely Brie – we thought to share, and then they turned to me and asked what I would like – this after they had just carved off to big slabs of cheese – I just got the same I was so dumbfounded! We also asked to look at the digestif drinks menu as we generally finish our big nights with an Armagnac or two. Once again very disappointed by the list – I am used to encyclopaedic tomes in Melbourne and Sydney through which to select our beverage of choice – here there were about 5 or so Armagnac’s/cognac’s and some of them were just your basics you would find in any restaurant. Once again I would hazard a guess that this is a Japanese difference, as they had quite a selection of scotch’s, which are quite popular in Japan. I ordered the 1981 Macallan and Shane got the 1979 to come with the petit four.

Le Raisin Muscat

Fresh Mustcat grape with a lemon and honey jelly and an apple granite

Next cab off the rank was the very refreshing palate cleansing granite. This was a really simple yet lovely dish – this is the kind of dish I was expecting when we had chatted with the chef – you can get a feel for the ingredients in this dish, but you’re also impressed by the skill and mastery of the chef. This was a definite hit.

Le Carioca

Carioca papaya coulis and Guava mousse served with black currant sherbet

Ah the final dish before the petit four. These arrived with a flourish and both Shane and I were both impressed with the way the whole dish was presented. I recall my dessert was lovely, I really enjoyed the experience. I can’t say the same for Shane:


This moment will live in infamy – is that a poor choice of words considering in the location? Ok, let me rephrase, there was a bloody HAIR in Shanes meal. A BIG THICK BLACK HAIR. I’m sorry, but that’s never happened to me even at McDonald’s. Perhaps I should have pulled a John McEnroe at this point – Are you serious??? So, I’m enjoying my delicious dessert when I look over to see Shanes face. He looks confused and a little sad. He points to his bowl, “have a look at this”… I look down. I say nothing to Shane, but I turn to the area where the waiters are and say “SUMIMASEN” rather forcefully. The waiter comes over with a questioning look and I point to Shanes bowl – “There is a hair in my friends dish!”. The waiters face drops – he looks as though someone has died. Shane fends off the offer of another dessert with some lame excuse, and the offending dish is removed forthwith. Both of us are confused and a little embarrassed. We don’t know where to look. Silence for a good 5 minutes. The waiters stay away from a while. We discuss the meaning of this incident for the meal. There’s no way that you can let that sort of thing slide. We both felt like mugs – I mean we just flew from Melbourne just to eat here. We spent 155,000 Yen on the meal – (They gave us 2,000 yen off for the offending dessert).

Nice of them to take 2000 yen off for the offending dessert...

Nice of them to take 2000 yen off for the offending dessert…

Neither of us knew what to do or say in this situation – the waiter eventually came back over and apologised and almost hit the floor when he bowed towards Shane. You could tell that they were all very upset as well. This sort of thing just shouldn’t happen.

Le Café express ou le The

Express coffee or tea served with petit four

I don’t really remember this point – I think I had a macaroon – I didn’t care, it all tasted like ash at this stage, I was too caught up in the Hair incident to really notice… The Maccallan did calm me down a bit, it was lovely after all…

We asked the waiter to call us a cab, and we waited and discussed the whole incident, in fact we talked about the incident again at a bar in Shinjuku where we decided to get a night cap and then again the next day at the Qantas lounge. The outcome of our discussions was this. Even if you set aside the hair incident, the meal was not what we were expecting for a 3 star restaurant. There were too many misses – and they were misses because they were just underwhelming, uninspired or just not special. To me, any dish at a three star restaurant has to make you say, wow. If it doesn’t, it shouldn’t be there. The degustation lacked vision or direction, at times I didn’t know what it was trying to do. At other times I thought it was a stripped back, very light  affair and then you get Duck liver or Blue cheese fondant??? This restaurant would probably not make my top five. That tells me that the Melbourne and Sydney food scenes are world class. I wonder if all three stars are like this? Something tells me not… Michelin, lift your game!




Food tour – Tokyo by night – Japanese food tour:

So we were running late for our food tour, thankfully the public transport system here is a breeze and runs like clockwork. One of the things I really liked about the trains was the computerized screens above each door which showed you where you were on the loop, and how long to each of the stations. It would flick between Japanese and English so it really was quite easy getting around.

The trains were packed, each station seemed like a Flinders street sized station at peak hour – but unlike back home, the trains were designed to carry large numbers of people and it really wasn’t hard, everyone got on and off quickly, people seemed to just know what to do, where to stand – everything just seemed to work like clockwork. Knowing this, I also sensed that we would need to be on time for the tour…

Underneath Yurkocho station

Underneath Yurkocho station – we made it on time!

Getting off the train and trough the station in a rush was a bit tricky, but we managed to find the entrance where we were to meet our guide. Clearly we don’t blend in because our tour guide managed to spot us out the front of the station. Our tour guide came over and introduced herself, Silvia who was actually from Brazil. Interesting story, she had come back to look after her grandmother who was sick, after both her parents had migrated to Brazil from Japan. This gave her an interesting perspective on Tokyo, having only lived in Japan for 8 years, yet being Japanese by birth. She seemed really friendly and easy to talk to, she gave us the run-down of the night – her English was excellent so there were no communication issues.

This is a little alley under the train tracks. Here you find all the Yakitori bars

This is a little alley under the train tracks. Here you find all the Yakitori bars


We started off by heading down under the train tracks into what seemed like a scene out of Blade runner – this little tiny alleyway, food stalls and tiny bars to either side, apparently a place that the office workers will go after work for a drink and a snack before catching the train back home. It was in this area that there were a lot of Yakitori restaurants, which basically means to grill over coals. We were taken to a tiny little place, there’s no way you would know to come here without a guide – and Silvia proceeded to make the arrangements. We sat up at the bar, overlooking the grill, wood charcoal heating a grill on which various skewered foods would be placed and basted. We were presented with hot hand towels which Silvia explained were used before the meal to clear your hands – Japanese don’t tend to use napkins – they think they’re weird. You don’t use these towels to wipe your face by the way, just your hands. Fascinating little details you just wouldn’t know otherwise. Another detail that I learnt was that the lanterns out the front of a bar indicate that the place serves drinks and food – if they are lit, the place is open.


The chef at work at the Yakitori grill

The chef at work at the Yakitori grill

The Yakitori was really interesting, watching the chef at work was a treat – they use a sugar sweetened sake and soy basting liquid, which is sweet and salty, I think they also added some salt to the cooking meats and vegetables as they went. You see the grill flame up occasionally and get the smell off the grill – its mouth watering stuff. Apparently there are a couple of key differentials between each Yakitori place, first is the choice of wood used for the coals, you get a huge difference in flavor depending on the choice. And secondly is the choice of sake used in the basting sauce – generally it would be a cooking wine, however, at this place they use a dinking sake which is not the norm.  It seems like the meat is usually chicken, however there is also a range of vegetables and tofu. They get served on little plates and you generally eat it off the skewer. Although since we were sharing a few of them, I had to get the chopsticks out. I actually did pretty well, although Shane was much more adept than I was. For the tour you also get the choice of a beer or sake for the night, since we had planned to buy more drinks as we went we weren’t too fussed so we asked Silvia what would traditionally go well with Yakitori, the answer for Yakitori was beer so that’s what we got.  I quite like Japanese beer, it’s generally very fresh and lightly hopped. It’s not heavy like a lot of the beers we’re getting back home these days, and it’s always perfectly poured. They take that very seriously. I really enjoyed the Yakitori, the Gogi berries were interesting, they had that salty Edamamae bar snack vibe, but with a slightly different texture, the tofu skewer was actually pretty good, although my favourite would have to have been the chicken mince.

This selection includes the Gogi berries

This selection includes the Gogi berries

A selection of the yakitori that we had

A selection of the yakitori that we had

It was great to have Silvia to ourselves, it really gave us the opportunity to ask questions and it felt like a really personalized tour as a result – although she was just really easy going and fun so I am sure that even if it had been a bigger group it would still have been great fun. Silvia mentioned that quite often her groups are anything from 7 to 12 people so we got pretty lucky for it to just be the two of us on a Saturday night.

Next stop was back to the Yurakucho train station, where we picked up some fish shaped sort of doughnut things called Taiyaki, which were filled with things like red bean past, fruit paste, cheese, chocolate. We got them early as the place would have closed by the time we got back from dinner. We ate these later when we got back to the hotel – I would suggest that they taste better warm, like doughnuts, but either way they were quite tasty. Back onto the train – this time it was good to have Silvia as she was able to explain a few things about the trains in Japan. One thing I learned was that the screens over the doors don’t just show you the loop and times to each station – as you come into a station they also show you which carriage you are on and where the stairs/exists are so you know which way to walk. Little things like this just make life so much easier.

Just in case someone falls onto the tracks - we know what to do now!

Just in case someone falls onto the tracks – we know what to do now!

Anyway, we were off to a different part of town for the second meal, an up market residential area called Tsukishima that’s down by the river. Again, not a place you would come to unless you knew what you were looking for. This is the area known for the Monjayaki style of cooking. Monjayaki is probably a style of cooking/food that you’ve never hear of – but some of you may have hear of Okonomiyaki, which we can get back home – it’s similar to this but has a much runnier batter. Anyway, Siliva took us to the area that is most well known for this style restaurants, the street here is almost exclusively Monjayaki! Anyway, so what is Monjayaki ? Basically it’s where you have a hot plate on the table and cook the food yourself – It’s really quite fun. You order the a big bowl of ingredients – it comes with a cabbage base, then seafood, pork, even cheese if you want it, there’s also a very light batter in the bottom of the bowl. You cook the veg and meat first and then make a space and pour in the batter and mix the ingredients all together.

Working hard on the grill - Monjayaki style

Working hard on the grill – Monjayaki style



You can make it into a pancake sort of thing similar to Okonomiyaki, or you can spread it really thin and let it get crispy on the bottom. It has a consistency of melted cheese, and like cheese, will go crispy if you cook it enough. You then just use the little spatulas to eat of the grill as you go.

Silvia making the Okonomiyaki

Silvia making the Okonomiyaki

It was a lot of fun, but hot work. Thankfully we had some cool refreshing sake to go with it all. The thing with sake, is that you are not supposed to pour it yourself, you should always pour it for your friend first, and you should never leave the glass empty. Apparently if you are dining on your own the staff will pour for you. Anyway, so the Monjayaki was a lot of fun, taste wise not the greatest food I’ve eaten, but I guess you would learn how to make it better as you go and what combos work, but for a unique experience I’d highly recommend. Once we’d polished off the Monjayaki, Silvia ordered the Okonomiyaki. Whereas Monjayaki is a local cuisine, Okonomiyaki is from further south in Hiroshima. This is the more common pancake that we are familiar with back home. Silvia cooked this one and you can see it looks much better, she added the sauces and the Benito flakes, although I had to get a taste in before Shane took the photo so I ruined it a bit!


Finally (wow, getting full), we had to have dessert – in this case it’s called Chokomaki! It’s basically a crepe batter that they cook for you, and then add chocolate pieces to.

Chokomaki being made

Chokomaki being made

Chocolate added then rolled up

Chocolate added then rolled up

Tasty! After all this eating it was time to head back. Silvia took us for a walk around the area and down to the river; it was actually quite dark and not very well lit as you can see from the photo.

Tsukishima by the water

Tsukishima by the water

We walked back past a playground on the way back to the train station and of course Shane couldn’t hold back the inner child and just had to play on the swings… Finally we got back to the train station, Silvia gave us directions to get the subway back to Shinjuku instead of the Yamanote line, which would save us about 20mins, and then we were back in Shinjuku. It was still raining a bit, and it was getting quite late, but that didn’t stop people from being out and about. The bright lights of Shinjuku were pretty full on for our tired eyes – you have to remember that we had only landed that morning and had really been on the go all day – I mean what a massive day – to think only 24hrs ago I had been getting on a plane in Melbourne!

Pretty tired at this stage

Back in Shinjuku – Pretty tired at this stage

We decided to get a nightcap from one of the bars in Shinjuku before heading back to the hotel, we went to this tiny little whiskey bar on the 8th floor of a building in the shopping district of Shinjuku – I think there were three other people in there and it was crowded. After that I was pretty much asleep on my feet so we decided to head back to our rooms – where I pretty much fell asleep as my head hit the pillow.


The craziness of the journey that Shane and I were to embark on only began to sink in as I was leaving work on Friday afternoon. Up until then I had been too busy to really think about the trip. We had caught up during the week to book a tour and discuss the trip, but really there hadn’t been a lot of planning involved since we had booked the restaurant in early September. When Shane arrived with the suitcase, it all got a little bit exciting – I packed hurriedly, and we enjoyed a beer while we waited for our driver to arrive – of course we weren’t getting a lift to the airport or catching a regular taxi, we were going in style. The trip to the airport was uneventful, on the journey there we organized for our driver to pick us up on the Monday night, until then we hadn’t given much thought to Monday. Friday to Monday, 20hrs of flights, two nights and two full days in Tokyo. This was going to be fun. Checking in and getting through customs was straight forward, and pretty soon we were on our way to find a drink and collect ourselves before the adventure began. Thankfully Shane still had his gold Qantas frequent flyer status (Which expired on the 31st October!) so we had access to the Qantas international business lounge.


Free food and drink is always appreciated! Thanks Qantas International Business Lounge!

It makes a difference to the start of the journey, being able to sit, relax and just get a drink or a bite to eat whenever you feel like it. We had about an hour and a half in the lounge before boarding – and then we were on our way. We were on the A330-200 which is configured in a 2-4-2 seating arrangement, I’d selected two seats in the window so it was nice not to have to share with a stranger or have to worry about climbing over 2 people. The Jetstar international seats have a bit more leg room than the domestic ones, and so even though Shane and I are both over 6ft, we still had enough room to be reasonably comfortable. Ok, so it’s no Qantas business class lay flat bed, but whatever – it did the job. The flight’s pretty easy, 10hrs give or take, overnight landing in the morning, I got about 4hrs of good sleep and dozed for another 2, Shane probably got a little less.

Landing in Narita was easy, getting through customs was efficient, very little Japanese between the two of us was no problem at all – all the signs were in English and Japanese. I even managed to purchase a coke at a little kiosk. I knew a couple of words – I tried those out, the man responded in Japanese, I smiled and nodded, showed him the coke I wanted, smiled and nodded some more and eventually gave him some money and he gave me the coke. Japanese is easy…

Because Shane Sucks at photo's, I thought I'd include a pic of what the train actually looks like - and some info about it. It's no shinkansen, but it was still cool

Because Shane  and I suck at photo’s, I thought I’d include a pic of what the train actually looks like – and some info about it. It’s no Shinkansen, but it was still cool

We had booked the Skyline express to Nippori, a fast train, the goes about 160kph and gets you into Nippori station which is on the Yamanote JR line. I was expecting some challenges catching public transport, but it was so easy. We had to change in Nippori, and purchase tickets to get us to Shinjuku. Once again, simple task – we asked at the help desk, they spoke English, we got our tickets and we were directed to the platform to catch the train. Easy. Why can’t we get a public transport system in Melbourne that works like this? It was about 9am by the time we got to Shinjuku – there didn’t seem to be a huge amount of people around, and a lot of shops hadn’t opened yet. The Shinjuku station by the way is huge – and mostly underground. However the signage makes sense and is easy to follow. We eventually climbed out of the station to be greeted by Shinjuku. Wow. This place is like times square – but crazier. Billboards everywhere, quite a few people out and about, even though a lot of shops are still closed – This was my Dorothy moment – I was not in Kansas anymore.

Our first mission was to get to the hotel, Shane’s GPS made that task pretty easy and after about 20mins of wondering around Shinjuku we arrived at the Grandbell hotel. Since check-in didn’t open until 3pm we got them to hold our bags, I changed in the toilets and we got ready to explore around Shinjuku.

Walking around Shinjuku, we realized that we had booked ourselves into a hotel situated near the red-light district – there seemed to be a lot of “love hotels” and gay bars. Lots of night clubs and bars – you could tell it would be an interesting area at night, wondering through all the small back alleys – early on the Saturday morning after Halloween there was evidence of the partying from the evening before, and people still in costume, or still drunk… Yep, this side of Shinjuku was certainly interesting. We decided to head back closer to the station which seemed more like an upmarket shopping area, which had the more reputable bars and restaurants. I needed to find something to eat and perhaps do some shopping. The weather wasn’t too bad at this stage, a light shower or two occasionally, but generally mild, about 22c. Indoors however, it was always quite hot, they don’t like to use the air-conditioning apparently – Had to keep taking my jacket off.

Not all that different to back home...

Not all that different to back home…

Check out my post on the Burger section for a clip and more information about the Burger experience!

Check out my post on the Burger section for a clip and more information about the Burger experience!

The first place we stopped off was Burger King – now I know you might think that’s a bit stupid – fly all the way to Japan just to get a burger you can get at home. Well, actually, the burgers here are different – you can’t get these at home. They have this black burger called the Kuro Diamond. It’s in a Black bun, with Black cheese and a black sauce, normally patty, mayo, tomato and lettuce. How could I pass up that sort of opportunity? So I ordered the burger with some onion rings and a coke zero – once again, my pointing, smiling and nodding skill were showcased to great effect. Monies were exchanged – and food was provided. Easy. Shane got a whopper with avocado and fries – a little different, but essentially the same. The meals were provided quickly, and they were presented perfectly on the try – it looked like what you see on a commercial – these Japanese take pride in everything they do. I unwrapped my burger and took the first bite – and that was about all I wanted to take. Honestly, disgusting. I felt sick. The black shiny cheese and the black sauce had this weird flavor combination going on – sort of vegemite mixed with mushroom soy and oyster sauce thing going on – it was just wrong. At least I can say I’ve had a black burger… The onion rings were quite nice and Shane was kind enough to give me some of his fries.

We decided to make our way back towards the shopping district in Shinjuku to kill some time before we could check in. The area around the station is quite built up and home to a range of up-market shopping options – from Zara and Topshop, tiffanies and coach. Plus there’s a whole bunch of electronics stores alongside a multitude of bars and restaurants. By this stage it was clear that the place had woken up, people were everywhere – there was just no end to the hoards of people.  By this stage the weather had also taken a turn for the worse and was raining fairly heavily. We decided to see if we could find some umbrellas, walking into the first likely store, to be greeted by photos of naked women – it seemed like a normal gift shop kind of place from the outside, they sold gifts and books and dvd’s, I guess kind of like a news agent – but there was no censoring of the photos, obviously not worried about kids walking in? I guess f you could read the signage you’d know… Anyway, we got out two tiny clear umbrellas for about 300 yen each and then continued to wander Shinjuku. Shopping for clothes here is pointless if you are bigger than a medium. I wanted to see if I could pick up a sports jacket – their idea of XL is probably closer to our medium. Their XL pants were 92cm – Didn’t worry about trying to find any clothes after that.

I also needed to get a USB cable so I could charge my phone – I’d brought the charger/adapter, just not a USB cord. Managed to pick one up from an electronic store by holding up my phone, pointing to the mini-USB port and saying charger – cost me about 2000 Yen, but I got what I needed eventually. After all that shopping, we decided that we really needed to find a spot to sit down and grab a refreshing beverage. Getting a table in Tokyo is easy, walk in to the bar or restaurant of choice, wait until the person greeting you has stopped talking, smile, nod, then hold up the same number of fingers as people in your dining party. Follow the waiter/waitress as y moving along saying “Hai, hai” Sit down. Smile and nod. I’m pretty much a local by this stage. The menus normally have photos, so Shane and I pointed to the photos of the beer, held up two fingers, smiled and nodded. Two beers arrived a short time later. This time however, I wanted to get creative. I whipped out the phrase book and after getting the waitresses attention – sisimasen – potatoru firu, arigato. Smile, nod. Some 5 minutes later, a bowl of chips and tomato sauce arrived at our table. Yep, I knew Japanese was easy.


Pretty tired by this stage…

It was getting towards checking in time so we started to walk back to our hotel, stopping for refreshments as we went. This time we walked through the less respectable area of Shinjuku, there are “Girl bars” everywhere, dodgy looking bars, nightclubs and lots of hairdressing salons. Apparently there’s quite the cross dressing thing going on here. The hair dressing salons are to help you get that “feminine” look. We did a bit of research and read a few horror stories about drink spiking and getting mugged so we decided not to risk going out in this area of town.

A walk way on the way back to the hotel.

A walk way on the way back to the hotel.

Finally checked in at about 3pm, got to our rooms and discovered that a small room in Japan is pretty bloody small. There is no extra space, you get a king single – although they call is a double – no chance of two normal sized westerners in there.

Tiny Bed

Tiny Bed

A tiny bath/shower, and a toilet. – that’s about it. The toilets by the way are pretty cool. They have inbuilt seat warmers, a bidet and a blow dryer. All controlled by a remote on the side. Shane in particular was pretty excited by the toilet. I think he took a dozen photo’s, I hope no action shots. Anyway, here’s just to give you an idea of the controls!

Confusing - but the best part was the seat warmer!

Confusing – but the best part was the seat warmer!

By this stage we had been going for quite some time with very little sleep so showers, a change of clothes and a really quick accidental nap were the order of the day. I lay down after my shower and woke up 30 mins later. By this stage we had to get going because we had our tour booked – Tokyo by night. We had to get from Shinjuku to Yurakucho, once again relying on public transport. We purchased Suica cards from the ticket machines at Shinjuku station  – which all display in English if you press the button and loaded up some funds – 500Y to buy the card and the 1500 loaded (I had 300 left over by the end of our trip). Once again we were traveling on the Yamanote line which is like a big loop around Tokyo. It’s so easy to catch and there’s pretty much a train every few minutes. I don’t think we waited for more than 2 or 3 minutes ever. It takes about 30mins from Shinjuku to Yurakucho and we were supposed to meet our guide out the front at 5pm, since we caught the 4:27pm train we were cutting it fine.

I’ll update the food tour soon…

In March this year I got an email from Jetstar with a special deal for flights to Tokyo – less than $300 each way. I thought about this for a moment and then realised that Shane and I had about $2000 in the diners club account… A thought bubble began to form. I looked at the available dates, it was possible to book the flights for the long weekend in November, which by that stage we’d have another $1000 in the account. I called Shane. We got excited. I asked my wife. I booked the flights – I think this was the order… either way things were booked and good to go. We added a couple of extra’s that brought the price out a bit – I got a baggage allowance and we both got meals and the ability to choose out seats. I think the final price was close to $700 – still very cheap!  We booked the flights for Friday 31st October departing Melbourne at 11pm and arriving in Tokyo Narita at 7:20 am Saturday the 1st November, Two full days in Tokyo and then the flight home on Monday 3rd of November leaving Tokyo Narita at midday and arriving around Midnight. It was interesting to tell people about our plans – most of our colleagues or friends seemed perplexed and  would often ask, “why are you only going for two days?”. Our response of course was that we were just going out for dinner – it just happened to be in Tokyo – that’s just the way we roll…

Tokyo has more Micheline stars than any other city on the planet – what this means is there is a wealth of options for fine dining. Both of us planned to learn some Japanese before the trip – I bought a book… That worked out well… At least I could say hello and thank you. We both had phrase books to back us up just in case.

Anyway, planning began in earnest, a few months out from the trip, we had to research and book a three star restaurant after all. After a bit of research, we finally decided on Joel Robuchon’s restaurant – lets be honest here, he’s only one of the best names in fine French cuisine in the world – his three starred restaurant Chateau Joel Robuchon Ebisu also happened to be open on the Sunday night and they spoke English to us over the phone – all good things. Also their menu looked amazing and how do you go past the Name – one of the best Chefs in the world, Three stars!!!

We booked our accommodation on the back of a recommendation from one of Shane’s work mates who had been to Japan before – The Granbell Shinjuku. We got a small room each for less than $100 per night! Once all of this was organised we promptly got so busy for the next couple of months that we hardly spoke about the up coming trip. A couple a nights before we were due to leave Shane came down to Melbourne and we were able to book a food tour for the Saturday night, book our tickets for the skyliner fast train from Narita (Not quite a bullet train but it goes 160 Kph none the less!), and organise our bags. We also organised the cash side of things, both using cash cards, loaded with Yen. Christopher has given us the name of the guy he uses through Uber, to drive us to the airport in style, so we booked that, pretty much everything we need to organise was done. The next few days seemed to drag on. I can tell you…

I’ll up load the photos and the first day of the trip soon – stay tuned.